It’s hard to believe but coming to Tainan wasn’t all about the food. I had read about the Chimei Museum, a private museum established in 1992 by a businessman, Shi Wen-Long, to bring artwork to the citizens of Tainan for free. As non-Tainan residents we had to reserve paid tickets at least one day in advance. What sets this museum apart from most others in Taiwan is its focus on Western art. Mr. Shi grew up disadvantaged, and he wanted the citizens of Tainan to have access to Western art without having to take a trip to Europe. The museum houses the world’s largest collection of violins and an extensive collection of ancient weaponry.
We couldn’t quite believe our eyes when we stepped out of our taxi, thinking that we had been transported to western Europe. I mean, look at this.
If it weren’t for the heat, we probably could have spent half of our time here just touring the grounds. It was a real mind swirl –Fontana di Trevi, Corinthian columns and Ponte Sant’Angelo all in one place? And that place is Tainan? What’s happening??
Apart from the world class collections, stellar kid-friendly exhibits and delicious lunch, what really stayed with me was the energy of the visitors. Philip and I have visited many museums in the world, but I don’t remember being to one where all of the visitors were happy and engaged with the museum. There was an overall good mood atmosphere, and people seemed to be genuinely having a fun time…in a museum!
After all that culture, shaved ice was in order. We stood on line, waiting for three out of six seats, at a Taiwanese shaved ice shop serving kakigori, Japanese style shaved ice. Once inside, we were transported to all things cute and enjoyed every mouthful of our icy dessert.
We headed back to the center of town to see another famous Tainan landmark, Chikan Tower or Fort Provintia, a fort built by the Dutch in 1653. This site has survived earthquakes, invasions, you name it. It is currently undergoing restoration to highlight the Dutch ruins under the temples that were later constructed atop the ruins. As a side note, it has also become a place where students go to pray for good grades.
Tainan is known for its art scene and graffitied alleys, so we wandered through a colorful maze of streets before getting ready to eat our last meal in this historical city.
We headed to one of Tainan’s most famous roadside food stalls for a taste of Rou Bo’s turkey rice. Since its opening 40 years ago, the recipe has always remained the same. Whole turkeys are poached in a ginger and scallion broth for hours in the morning, the meat shredded and layered over rice. And the sauce, made of turkey juices, turkey fat and shallot oil, is then poured over the top. It’s such a simple meal, but the composition of flavors is incredible. Rou Bo’s turkey rice can now be found in the fancy Taipei 101 building and a couple more modern storefronts in Tainan, but we wanted to be where the magic started. A fitting last meal in a city steeped in so much history and culinary delights.
